Degustation Restaurant New York

Degustation (French/Spanish (Tapas) / East Village / $$$)
239 E 5th St (between 2nd Ave & Cooper Sq)
(212) 979-1012

The lucky few parked at the 16-seat tasting bar at Jack and Grace Lamb’s unique East Villager have the chance to observe masterful chefs concocting heavenly Franco-Spanish small plates from the best possible ingredients; its an unforgettable experience for serious foodies who only wish the space were bigger and perhaps that the price was a bit lower. The entire restaurant is one long corridor where patrons sit at the bar and face the kitchen. Being so close to the chefs is an experience itself; watching them is akin to seeing a master artist paint. Dim lights, brick walls and the wooden table are all masterfully crafted to provide an upscale, albeit cramped ambiance. With its reverential service, its frequent changes of silverware, and assorted other flourishes, this isn’t your ordinary toothpick-flying, sangría-flowing tapas bar. Genovart’s menu makes use of such currently fashionable cooking techniques and ingredients as sous vide and xanthan gum. But nothing tastes forced or contrived. Flavors, for the most part, are bold and harmonious, and often so rich that the smallish portions make perfect sense.

The regular menu rotates often but recommended staples include: slowly poached egg, jamon serrano, chorizo, smoked cheese and rice cracker crusted asparagus ($7); seared scallops in a mussel broth with sea beans, grapes and dehydrated cherry tomatoes ($12); and grilled lamb belly with a maitake mushroom and potato hash brown, beet gatstrique and a slowly poached quail egg ($10). The five-course $50 tasting menu provides off-menu items and is sure to be a treat. The $75 ten-course tasting menu is an absolute steal especially when compared to the prices of other tasting menus. Portions are toned down, but the full menu will definitely leave you satisfied. To top off your meal, try the selection of four cheeses with accompaniments ($15), which includes four types of cheese accompanied by honey, fruit, and jam, served alongside a basket of fresh bread. The sheer fact that the honey comes right on the comb should indicate the innovation of this restaurant.

The close quarters of this 16-seat restaurant suggest multiple things: reservations should be made very early and walking to the bathroom can be an ordeal at times. The servers also stand behind the bar, providing prompt service and always asking for feedback. In addition, chefs themselves will often serve food. Thus, the food and service more than make up for any lack of room. As far as tapas go, serious foodies should consider this a necessary destination.

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